Orcadian Observations

The 50th anniversary of my father's passing called for exceptional journeying.  Born to a Northern family with ingrained travelling tendancies, my father's ancestral links to Scotland were never spoken of.  This discovery that was at first somewhat surprising has since thrown light on a strong sense of 'going home' on my increasingly frequent travels North.  This year I opted to continue journeying until I ran out of road and on a glorious late Spring day, I arrived in Scrabster harbour in Caithness and looked out over a serene Pentland Firth - a most unusual vista I am told.  My eyes looked keenly across the stillness of the often treacherous waters to the land mass on the horizon - this was the continued Northly direction I was heading.

As I disembarked the morning ferry at Stromster port in Orkney, a smooth and endless landscape unfolded 360 degrees around me.  The islands have been described as 'sleeping whales' - a most apt description of the low hills than run from one panorama to the next, broken only in the main by the odd low level building.  It was certainly the first time I had witnessed a landscape on the British Isles which for most part, is devoid of trees and this vista from the ancient ground of Maeshowe is typical of an Orcadian view I would view daily, and much to my surprise come to to relish.

I also quickly found that Orkney has a sense of longevity that that seeps in with every step, something I particulary experienced at Maeshowe on Orkney mainland.  The simple, yet pleasing exterior, belied a spectacular stone built cairn that I was coaxed inside to fully view.  Maeshowe is believed to have been a Neolithic burial chamber or spiritual site and the complex construction in immense lengths of flagstone that bevel towards the roof were a wonder to behold.  The flagstones,which are covered in Viking 'graffiti' from a later occupation, are considered by some to have been 'contributions' from surrounding Neolithic settlements as a means of appeasing declining community fortunes.

Further enchanting evidence of ancient close knit communities were also to be found in abundance at nearby Skara Brae.  

Once considerably further back from the now shore line on the Bay of Skaill, the compact cluster of ten Neolithic stone houses connected by walkways revealed an astonishing detail of daily living.  Observing stone hearths, display dressers, beds and toilets that are 5000 years old was both fascinating and truly humbling.

As ever on my journeying, there were totally unanticipated finds.  One was wind, so relentless that keeping my feet connected to the earth was a challenge at times.  

Then there was the sky which could change from the deepest lead grey to brightest azure blue in a matter of moments.  Most captivating was the phenomenal light quality that enthralled me every day and try as I might, my camera lenses always fell woefully short in capturing as my eyes beheld.

It was ultimately my final destination of the island of Westray where I spent my most contented hours.  My base in the main town Pierowall was so named from the old Norse for 'Small Bay' - the best approximation in local speak is 'Pirro-wa'.  

With one modest hotel, a solitary petrol pump, two shops stocked to the gunnels and a chip shop that opens twice a week, the local community easily sources anything over and above through the regular flights and ferries to the island.

This ability to secure supplies for all needs enables a creativity in abundance for the island's 500 or so inhabitants.  Professional tapestry weavers Louise Martin and Ros Bryant have lived on Westray for some years and after enjoying looking at their striking textile work from a distance, their 2022 summer offering of a combined textile and landscap workshop felt a calling to run with.  West Manse and Brotchie, a sustainable and beautifully restored house high up on a headland just outside Pierowall was our cosy and congenial creative base for the week.

This was to be far from a conventional weaving workshop and each morning Louise and Ros guided our happy group to an island vantage point and settled us down to work a simple yet highly engaging textile activity - yarn wrapping.  

A pastime that was completely new to my fingers, I was truly amazed at the level concentration that was required - and co-ordination to wrap yarn around strips of card in in the Westray wind!  Our first wrapping was created was to reflect a slither of the landscape in single colour blocks - a satisfactory attempt by me I thought.

Yarn wrapping became a daily morning activity that we all savoured, translating the colours and tones that our eyes detected in the landscape to yarn creations in our fingertips.  

The hours flashed by as totally absorbed, my fingers worked diligently blending colours to reflect the Westray landscape that filled my senses.  My sample cards became great treasure and would do much to guide my woven work.

On our return to West Manse each afternoon, we each began to tapestry weave in a manner that most called.  A relatively new craft to me, I could easily have attempted a marathon before I could walk and while commencing a final piece persistantly called me, I was rightly pulled back to the solid ground of tapestry weaving basics and creating oh so vital samples.  

Eventually I settled into my task and my fingers gained confidence working the finest of yarns between the warp threads.  These are my initial samples, worked onto a block of wood I found at my feet on the first workshop day.

The first tapestry weaving that followed was inspired a by beautiful blue morning sitting with weaving group at a stunning Westray location at Tafts End - one of many beautiful bays.  

What a happy morning we had sitting along the top of the bay watching the fast moving skies and colour changes on bright and typically windy Westry day.

My woven piece started in Westray was completed on my my return to Somerset.  Worked predominately in fine wool yarn, I learnt much about warping and weaving using methods to achieve a smooth finish and blending yarn colours to create a painterly effect.  

A technique where weaving is an experience where choices are made in moment, I found this to be a very absorbing and pleasurable experience and I immediately rewarped a frame to start a second piece.

Remembering the detail of my journeying this summer also continues to enthrall me.  I quickly came to realise how much I miss coastal waters and all that is offers to daily living throughout the seasons.  Aside of their obvious coastal beauty, Westray beaches have a further dimension of regularly offering up diverse natural and historical finds.  

I can only imagine the sad day when these stunningly beautiful whale bones first appeared on the beach at Tafts End - a stark reminder that even the mightiest of creatures ultimately returns to the elements.

The Links of Noltland on the North of Westray have revealed numerous ancient treasures, large and small.  Accessed via an overgrown track at the limit of my small car, I felt compelled to continue and my reward was to view the remains of a vast farming settlement dating from 3300 BC to 800 BC - my enchantment was such that I ommitted to fully photograph.  

This was a regular experience for me on Westray, for all that a camera is always with me, how easily it was forgotten when I was mesmurised yet again by yet another wonder in front of me.

One of Westray's most noteable finds was at this location in 2009, a standstone Neolithic figurine 4cm in height which is locally known as the 'Westray Wife'.  Believed to be the earliest depiction of a human face found in the United Kingdom, this simple carving also known at the 'Orkney Venus' grabbed my attention some days before my feet set down on Westray soil.  

How delighted I was to view quietly and in very close proximity at the most charming Westray Heritage Centre on the bay at Pierowall.

Whilst the elements were most kindly for all of my Orkney observations this year, I am aware that the typical climate is such that bare arms in summer is a rarity and winter months offer up weeks when daylight is fleeting.  There are of course many creatures who are quite happy with these conditions and I imagine they observe us less hardy humans with much interest.  

My early morning interactions with seals basking in sunshine on the Broughton rocks in Pierowall were magical moments - watching me watching them with curiosity and without expections.  

I also enjoyed very pleasurable visit to see this Westray 'Holmie' sheep and her lamb. An ancient sheep breed that in the main lives untended feeding on seaweed on the nearby 'holm' of Aikerness.  This particular pair were being tended by islander Kim who had relocated from Yorkshire to continue with her work with horses and rare breed animals.  Which brings me to another striking Orkney observation, most of the locals I spent happy time with had relocated there their from very different Southerly lives.  For anyone questioning the wisdom of such a decision, I can tell you as a well established Southerner, this is something I can totally relate to, if not fully explain.

I took my last evening Westray walk at Castle O'Burrian, thinking that a few of the many native puffins might come to join my last few hours of breathing in all that is Westray.  

Whilst this was sadly not to be, I was treated to the most ambient late evening sunshine, warmth for bare arms and absolutely no wind!  As I had came to learn from living even a short time on Westray, it is best to expect the unexpected!

My eyes observed this old horseshoe on a wall in Broughton on each of my seven resident days.  Enjoying the many plays of light, I observed on my final day the absence of the seven nail holes that are said to represent good fortune.  No matter, as by that point I had already enjoyed greater riches from my Orcadian experiences than I could ever have imagined.  

Mindful too that benevolance comes in many forms and grateful for all that I had received, as I journeyed back across another serene Pentland Firth and away from the evocative islands that so many are drawn back to, my eyes fell on this quote - 'keep your eyes forward as this is the direction you are going'.