Extending my textile wanderings in a westerly direction across the dramatic Prince of Wales Bridge has been very long overdue - as I've often been reminded when observing faintly on the horizon from one of my favourite Somerset coastline chill outs.
A highly successful and popular annual event, Wonderwool is now attended by traders and visitors from far and wide across the UK, and of recent years I have greatly enjoyed being one of the latter.
I have found much that is new and novel to enjoy during my Wonderwool visits and this year my eyes delighted on this simple display of sheep breed fibre in it's raw and spun form. This said, I'm becoming increasingly aware that wool is far from a simple affair and with the UK having over 70 sheep breeds to explore, I'm confident that it is going to take many years of wandering to get any where close to seeing every single one!
And of course there are those amazing animals without which there would be no wool! Fossilised remains suggest that wild sheep evolved over 10 million years ago and that a wool industry has existed in the UK for over 4000 years.
For all of the delights to see at Wonderwool, and of course to touch, it is these friendly chats that open new doors for me to wander through. It was one such chat this year with friendly mill owner Roger Poulson of Curlew Weavers that wetted my appetite to finally get my act together and learn more about Welsh wool textiles. Roger's parents started his mill at Rhydlewis, Llandysul in 1961 and fibre has been worked at the mill ever since in a variety of ways. Curlew has a long tradition for weaving woollen fabric and this distinctive and very appealing stripe has been one of their staple designs.
I was delighted to visit Roger's mill on a bright autumn day and learn much from his accounts. The need to adapt the mill processes to an ever changing market and to understand what makes for saleable goods has been key to the mill's survival.
My research happily continued at at the nearby National Wool Museum of Wales, housed in old Cambrian Mills buildings in Drefach Felindre in the Teifi valley. From its opening in the mid 19th century the Cambrian Mills expanded to become the largest of the 52 mills in Drefach Felindre. The mill was destroyed by fire in 1919 and the current buildings were rebuilt in the years following. With a boom for wool fabric during the two World Wars, the area became known as the 'Huddersfield of Wales' and provided employment for most families living in the area. Sadly wool production declined in post war years and after losing its foothold to mills in the North, the buildings were converted to the current museum in 1976.
It was likely one of the first mills to produce Welsh tartans, after bringing in unpopular weaving expertise from Scotland!
Processing wool was, and still, is a messy affair and this image dispels any romantic notions of working life in a mill in times past. Wool fibres are all very different to process and even today, there are some that mill owners today are keen to avoid.
Cambrian Mill weaver Raymond Jones and his wife Diane set up 'Melin Teifi' in one of the old Cambrian Mill buildings in 1982. They had worked at Cambrian Mill for over 20 years and wanted to continue with the work that was 'all that they ever knew'. Now retired after weaving for 60 years, Raymond is currently training staff at the museum to ensure that the Melin Teifi looms continue. I had the great pleasure of visiting him and his wife Diane in their nearby home amd I will long remember chatting with them over coffee about their weaving lives.
One woollen fabrics has long been on my radar, as Raymond was for some years the weaver for the distinctive wool fabric used in the Quaker Tapestry Panels.
In 1922, the Directors of Tregwynt transferred management of the mill to an employee-owned trust, making the skilled and passionate staff the community to take the mill forward in the 21st century.
Solva Woollen Mill is one of the oldest mills in Prembrokeshire and also continues a modern and thriving operation in 2023. Located one mile inland of the very attractive River Solva inlet, it has a weaving shed and shop tucked away in the picturesque Prendergast woodland.
Their 'portuculis' pattern, also known as 'Caernarfon', is an iconic Welsh textile pattern and like many textiles it is usually woven as a double weave cloth. These old designs are steeped in history and it is believed that this particular pattern was the precursor of many North America folk art traditions that became widespread following Welsh emigration in the late 18th century.
It feels fitting that my story of Welsh wool wanderings so far concludes with this watery capture. The inlet at Solva is the source of the river that long generated power for Solva Woollen Mill and it gave me numerous hours of pleasure during my visit.
I so enjoy spinning fleece from the breeds that I research and it is fascinating how differently the fibre from each sheep breed feels and responds in our fingers. I ever appreciate advice from others who are more skilled, especially when the friendly spinner is demonstrating on a spinning wheel as beautiful as this Herring Alpha.
The nuances of carding, drafting, spinning and plying are many and they are sure to generate lively debates! Thankfully spinners are a friendly breed in the main and they are happy to share and inspire those seeking to develop their skills.
Breeding over time has led to many different sheep breeds and I love finding new ones and learning about their history. Here is a fine male specimin of a Balwen Welsh Mountain sheep that I saw at Wonderwool - I believe!
For the past 20 years Curlew Weavers has specialised in processing rare breed fibre for owners of small flocks throughout the UK. An area of growing interest, I have learnt from chatting with rare breed owners that it can be difficult and costly to get small amounts of fibre processed and spun and or/woven and Curlew fills this requirement that is happily expanding. These fibre natural colours have particularly called me in this year and I have enjoyed experimenting with them with natural dyes throughout the summer months.
A symbol of Welsh nationalism and pride, there is also a tradition for 'cilts' or 'Ysgrepan' as they are known in Wales.
Heavy duty machinery was required for all textiles process and this in turn generated work for other manufacturing industries - the name of the many Northern manufacturers are very often emboldened with pride in the metal casings.
In the mid 20th centuruy, Cambrian Mill was owned by John Lewis and David Evans following this, however, the mill processes became dated and unable to complete with competitors, it closed completely in 1982.
I have long relished this delicately striped fabric first that was first desgned and woven in Somerset and I have encouraged others to similarly enjoy using in their heartfelt textile creations.
With abundant river water in Wales, in the late 19th century there were around 325 mills in operation. As with all Welsh woollen mills, Melin Tregwynt is one of the very few who are fortunate to continue in 2023 with around 30 employees.
Starting its life as a 17th century corn mill, it took another 100 years before wool became its mainstay. The mill once performed every stage of wool production, from raw fleece to finished material and provided, work and in doing so it provided a valued a sense of community.
The wool used for weaving at Tregwynt is sourced from free to roam sheep in the Cambrian mountains. This premium wool is called 'Welsh Mule' and it is known for its lustre and firmness.
Their shop next door to the mill is stocked to overflowing with their contemporary designs in stunning colourways. It was very easy to see why their weaving is highly revered and sort after in the 21st century.
In addition to weaving traditional woollen fabrics, the mill specialises in rugs and floor coverings and visitors can watch weavers at workon the Dobcross looms.
Colour pallettes are of equal importance in all weaving designs and this display at Solva Mill typifies the colours used in their current day designs. Traditionally worked in 2 or 4 colours, Welsh mills now also produce contemporary designs that sometimes include a few more colours to very good effect.
Wool and water are intrinsically linked and while no longer required as a production power source, it remains key to parts of modern day woollen processes. It also without doubt continues to provide inspiration in abundance - for me and many many others :)
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