Learning in London

It had been way too long since I'd last visited London, for all sorts of reasons, some of which I now realise were really excuses.  Having worked in the city a little over the years, I thought it was about time that visited for pure pleasure, and how glad I am that I did exactly that this Spring.  A long ahead planned date, with doubts of travel and the weather working against me, transpired to be a delightful city experience.  I could hardly believe my luck as I began strolling around the streets and parks in the first seriously sunny spell of the year.  How come had I never walked in London parks before I wondered - the most perfect place to enjoy nature and people watching in the city!

The toughest thing about planning a trip to London is working out what can realistically be fitted in, especially in just a couple of days and with a brutish bag in toe!  

Having seen most of the large attractions over the years, I was looking for something more intimate to enjoy and to home in on for my return.  The very helpful guide Textile Travels by Rebecca Devaney & Jo Andrews gave me some very useful pointers to textile venues that in truth, I may never have otherwise tracked down.  

Finding my first location, VV Rouleaux in Marylebone Lane W1, was emotional, watching charming little flags wafted in the Spring breeze.  I took a few moments to stand outside enjoy the anticipation of what lay within this ribbon and trimming haven set up 35 years ago by Annabel Lewis.  It is wonderful that textile shops of this calibre have survived the rigors of 21st century internet shopping, and give us the joy of seeing and touching beautiful textiles first hand.

Entering this haven of ribbon and trimming loveliness was the delight I had anticipated, and this was much added to by welcoming staff; who I am sure are very used to new shoppers looking as excited and giddy as I likely did! 

The combination of home and personal accessories, many of which are personally made by Annabel, were captivating and soothing after the hustle and bustle of the city streets.  Her hat creations were devine - oh that I needed a special occasion hat sometime soon.   I then spotted a set of stairs and realised that I had another floor to explore - with my bulky wheelie in toe!  Ah well, needs must, it would have been extremely rude to leave only having done half a job.  All the same, I quickly realised that I should have accepted the kindly assistant's offer to mind my bag while I shopped.

My aching limbs were vanquished the moment I reached the lower floor and my eyes scrambled around further visual delights.  Try as I might to connect with the planning parts of my left planning brain, my creative right brain was having none of it.  I drooled over displays of equistive ribbons and trims and I smiled as I overheard  a conversation between a couple who where trying to make choices.  Oh how to choose without taking hours - an impossible task.  

I climbed back to the ground floor and looked at gorgeous tassels and berets and I honed in on a few potential purchases.  It is so easy to forget to factor in that visiting shops like this and making choices take time and they need to be savoured.  Plus wishing you had purchased something more after leaving is best avoided!

As I walked the following hour to my next destination, I did exactly that, although thankfully my arrival curtailed my rumination.  The Joss Graham Gallery has been present in Eccleston Street SW1 for the last 45 years and specialises in antique and contemporary textiles from around the globe.  Clothing, accessories, cushions, hangings, blinds, rugs, tablecloths and much more awaited within.  The gallery also offers expert valuations, cleaning, conservation and restoration of textiles.  This was clearly a serious textile venue and similarly based over two floors.  Remembering my earlier experience, I asked the kindly assistants to mind my bulky bag while I browsed.

It is utterly impossible to do justice to all that lay within this glorious gallery with a few sentences.  Packed with textiles collected by Joss Graham from around the world over many years, it was clear that this gallery required and derserved way more time that I had planned.  The term 'ethnographic textiles' comes to mind, and how important textiles are to so many of us for all the stories that they engender.  The expression of culture through textiles sadly seems less prominent in the 21st century, and yet a world without textiles is surely still unimaginable. This gallery was a most welcome reminder of the value of textiles and their validity as an art form.  When I left the gallery all too soon, I vowed to the kindly assistants that I would return. 

My next stop was as equally steeped in history, and yet I knew that I would unlikely glimpse a single textile fibre.  Textiles aplenty have without doubt found their way into the River Thames over the centuries and for all that the waters and mud are still filled with history, textiles have the shortest lipspan of all.  As I stood and looked down on the oldest London dock, I wondered at what history lay in the sand and mud of Queenhithe beach.  A London Port permit is required to take finds from any London beach, however, Queenhithe is not accessible to anyone and I stood quiety and contemplated all that lay within, my own history and that of thousands before.

I was delighted to learn more about what can be found in a river that has flowed throughout the centuries at the historical Waterman's Hall in St Mary at Hill.  The only remaining Georgian Hall remaining in the city, it is the base for the Company of Watermen & Lightmen on the River Thames, an organisation with 500 years of heritage.  The carefully restored rooms within are now used to host all manner of events and this was a perfect venue for a weekend 'Mudlarking Exhibition'.  A subject I have long followed with interest, despite the rather misleading connotations the name engenders, I had long wanted to see the results from those who partake firsthand.

Mudlarking, like so many 21st century hobbies, began from poverty.  In the 18th and 19th century, finding coal, iron, copper, rope and all other manner of objects, provided a lifeline to the poorest of London residents.  A filthy task carried out by children and women, the treacherous tides also made it very dangerous.  As it still is today, albeit now governed by regulations and more respect.  I particularly enjoyed talking with 'mudlarkers' Elle and Kristina about their evocative button finds.

As I sat in Kensington Gardens enjoying my last lunch, I reflected on my return to a city that maternal ancestors had lived and worked in.  While my foray had been brief, I had been greatly heartened to find a vitality that so many cities and towns have sadly lost.  I also observed a continued respect for history, longevity and culture.  I hold on to these nuggets of hope as I head into a different summer, finding my feet and treading new ground.